How to plant and store bulbs in Utah

While it is best to buy your bulbs now when the selection is best, it is too early to plant them. Wait and plant them when the soil starts to cool down but before the ground freezes, usually around September and October. Spring blooming bulbs, like tulips, must be planted in the fall because they require a long cool period to start rooting and to stimulate the blooming process. Most tulips, and many other bulb varieties, need at least 6 to 8 weeks of cold weather before they will bloom properly.

If you need to store them until you are ready to plant, keep your bulbs cool and dry, out of direct sunlight. Store them in cardboard boxes or in paper bags. Do not store your bulbs in plastic bags because they may rot. You may store your bulbs in a 38 to 40 degree F refrigerator, but do not put them in the freezer.

Prepare the soil before planting. Bulbs will rot in heavy or overly wet soils. Bulbs perform best in a fertile, well-drained soil, rich in organic matter. Till one or two inches of soil pep, compost, or well-rotted manure into the soil 12 inches deep.

When buying bulbs, check for firm, healthy specimens free of rot or soft spots. Larger bulbs produce larger, stronger blossoms the first year. After the first year, the size and number of blossoms depends on how well you fertilize and take care of your bulb gardens.

Plant them according to the accompanying instructions, or plant them in the soil at a depth three times the bulb’s height. All the nutrients the bulbs need to bloom the first year are already stored inside the bulb. Bulbs can be fertilized with commercial fertilizers such as 4-8-4 or 5-10-5.



Water your bulb garden thoroughly soon after planting your bulbs. The first watering is very important to help the bulbs settle properly. Once the bulbs are planted and watered they do not need much more water until spring because of the natural fall and winter moisture. If there is not much natural precipitation in the fall, you may need to water your bulbs occasionally until frost.

Water bulb gardens regularly once the bulbs start to bloom until the leaves start to turn yellow. Don't water bulb gardens very much after the leaves turn yellow and die. If you keep bulbs too wet during the summer many bulbs will start to rot.

Perhaps the most common mistake gardeners make trying to grow bulbs is removing the leaves too soon after blooming. The plants need 6 to 8 weeks of growth after they finish blooming to produce enough food for the bulb to produce a blossom next year. If you cut off the leaves too soon the bulb will not have stored enough food for next year. Your bulbs may produce very small flowers the next spring, or they may not bloom at all. You can cut off the flower stems near the ground as soon as the flowers fade. Do not remove the leaves until the foliage has fully yellowed. When you plant your bulbs, consider planting a few spring blooming perennials as companion plants to your bulbs. Planting companion plants along with the bulbs will help camouflage the fading foliage so they are not as noticeable during this stage.

Enjoy your beautiful bulb garden this upcoming spring and thank you for consulting us at Utah State University Extension.

JoDeane Condrat
Horticulture Assistant
extension.usu.edu

What can I do about necrotic (fairy) ring spot?

Thank you for your question. As you have discovered, managing Necrotic Ring Spot is challenging. The good news is that you have some options to try that should help. To answer your first and second questions: recovery from NRS is slow, but with the correct cultural practices that encourage optimal turf health, you should see improvement. Please read the factsheet link that I have included on Necrotic Ring Spot. I suggest trying the methods outlined in the factsheet before investing the time and money into replacing the lawn. It is very possible that the new lawn could also contract this disease and fungicides are not proven to be very effective. The methods outlined in the factsheet are based on scientific trials carried out through research based facilities. Your third question involving water is partially addressed in the factsheet. Irrigating in the early morning rather than the evening would allow the turf to dry out during the heat of the day.
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/necrotic-ring-spot08.pdf
Good luck and thank you again for consulting us at Utah State University Extension.

JoDeane Condrat
Horticulture Assistant
extension.usu.edu

What are the best poplar tree varieties for Utah?

Thanks for the question! Lombardi Poplars have a mixed reputation because they are short-lived trees and are susceptible to many pests and diseases (borers, crown gall, cytospora canker, galls, leaf scorch, leaf spot, root rot, slime flux, and tent caterpillar). They also tend to sucker abundantly, and older trees can appear ungainly with dead branches. This being said, they do grow extremely quickly and can provide excellent protection from the wind. They are hardy zones 3-9 (should be OK for most areas in Utah). If this description fits your needs, then the Lombardi Poplar might be a good option for you. They prefer moisture but can tolerate some drought stress. Another option (not as fast growing but a moderate grower) might be the Musashino Zelkova, Zelkova serrata "Musashino" (45 feet x 15 feet). Zelkovas not susceptible to any major pests or diseases and are hardy to zones 5-9. Columnar English Oaks (52 feet x 16 feet) are also excellent columnar trees, but much more slow growing (zones 5-8). I hope this helps, feel free to give us a call if you have any additional concerns or questions 801-468-3172. Thanks for your interest!

Sincerely,

Katie Wagner
USU Salt Lake Extension Horticultural Assistant

When is the best time to plant cherry trees?

Thanks so much for the question! Apple and Cherry trees could be planted at multiple times in the year. Fall is a great time to plant trees and oftentimes there are deals to be had at local nurseries trying to sell off stock before the winter season. Some people like to plant bareroot trees. Bareroot trees usually arrive at local nurseries sometime in March and should go in the ground as soon as the ground is workable. If you decide to go with trees already growing in a container, spring and fall are the best time to plant. I have included a link to a publication on planting trees.

http://extension.usu.edu/forestry/Reading/Assets/PDFDocs/NR_FF/NRFF017.pdf

I might also include that most people spray apple trees for the coddling moth and cherry trees for the western cherry fruitfly maggot. Because both of these spray programs are considerable, I have included some links to factsheets on both pests and management programs.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/apple-pears-control03.pdf
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/codling-moths06.pdf
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/western-cherry-fruit-flies06.pdf

I hope this helps. Thanks again for the question and interest and please feel free to contact us for further assistance or clarification. Thanks again-

Katie Wagner
USU Salt Lake Horticultural Assistant

How can I safely can peaches?

The jars of peaches you process have potential for microorganism growth and could cause illness if you consume them. You can safely reprocess with a 24 hours time-frame, using scientifically proven methods available from the USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning (https://extension.usu.edu/utah/htm/fcs/food-preservation-canning/usda_home_canning) or the Ball Blue Book (if using the Ball Blue Book, be sure to adjust for your altitude. Utah County averages 4900 ft). Recipes on the internet are not trustworthy sources for safe canning procedures unless they are from the USDA, the National Center for Home Food Preservation or a local Extension Service. Peaches need to be processed for 40 minutes while submerged in boiling water to insure that any potentially harmful microorganisms are killed, making the food safe to consume. Dissolve your sugar in the water first, then bring to a boil before adding to your jars of peaches. I would also suggest that you stop in for some additional information, or review the Canning 101 Online Self-study course (https://extension.usu.edu/utah/htm/fcs/food-preservation-canning) to learn more about safe preserving. We also teach workshops, including hands on, during the year. Our last hands-on canning class is today (Sept 16th). Check our website in January for the 2011 schedule of classes and workshops!

Thanks for contacting us and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Sincerely,

Jana Darrington
Utah State University Extension Assistant Professor Phone: 801-851-8468
Family and Consumer Sciences Fax: 801-343-8468

All about Sego lilies

All parts of those sego lily species are edible. Do not eat these plants without making a positive identification with a good field guide or the advice of an experienced botanist..
Do not to confuse the widely scattered sego lily with another member of the Liliaceae family, the death camass. (.
Iin contrast to the single bluegreen blade of the sego lily shoot, death camass has two to six bright green leaves break through the soil at about the same time. All parts of the death camass are toxic, and the fact that the sego lily, wild onion, and death camass often grow side by side—sometimes within inches of one another—makes proper identification essential and difficult.
I cannot find any law protecting the plants legally but since they are becoming musch less common, I would never dig them or eat them.
I only know of one couple who grew them in their garden successfully. They had a dry, xeric garden that they did not water. Overwatering is certain death for these plants.
I am frequently asked where to buy sego lilies. There are a few available from people who rescue them from construction areas, but they don't transplant well. One vender who advertises on ksl.com and Craig’s list is at the Farmers market at pioneer Park in Salt Lake City.
Sego lilies are native throughout the arid West. If you want to try to grow some, seeds are available from some native-plant societies, and there are other species of Calochortus genus that are available through catalogs.
Botanically, the sego lily is Calochortus nuttalli. Calochortus is a genus that contains 65 species, including the sego and mariposa lilies.
The plant gets its name from Thomas Nuttall, a naturalist, who collected the sego lily in 1811 while traveling along the Missouri River.
Sego-lily flowers are typically white, but some other members of the species have lilac or yellow flowers. The plant has a single grass-like, bluish-green leaf.
They bloom in dry areas along desert roadways and dry, sunny areas along the foothills. They prefer areas between 5,000 and 8,000 feet in altitude.
The flowers are beautiful, but that is not how they got to be the state flower. They are revered here because they saved the lives of many early settlers.
Native Americans, who considered the plant to be sacred, used the bulbs for food. Sego is a Shoshonean word thought to mean "edible bulb." Native American roasted them, boiled them or made them into a porridge dish.
The sego lily is the Utah state flower because of its historical significance in feeding the early settlers. A member of the lily family, it is commonly called the mariposa lily. The name comes from the Spanish word for butterfly because Spanish explorers thought the beautiful mountainside flowers looked like butterflies.
The bulbs were eaten raw, boiled or roasted but obviously should not be dug for consumption today because of the scarcity of the plant.
On March 18, 1911, the Utah Legislature declared the sego lily as the state floral emblem. It was selected after polling schoolchildren about their preferences for a state flower.
I have never eaten the bulbs but am told they are nutritious and quite tasty. Because they are not common, leave the plants to nature. If you dig the bulb, you will likely kill the plant.

How should I store my garden potatoes?

Thanks for the questions! I understand that potato harvests can be bountiful! Here is some information on harvesting and storage from our vegetable production specialist, Dr. Dan Drost.

http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/HG_Garden_2005-13.pdf


Potatoes are typically grown either as storage potatoes or thin skinned varieties like new potatoes or fingerlings. The skin of thin skinned potatoes will rupture easily so cleaning of these types is more delicate and storage not as lengthy as storage potatoes like russets. However, potatoes that are cleaned and completely dry will store for quite some time. Make sure they are in a dark place with good air circulation. Placing the potatoes in a cooler environment (like a cool, dry corner in a basement) will increase the storage time. I understand you have limited fridge space but perhaps you have a cooler garage? It is critical to keep the potatoes dry during storage. Check them frequently to make sure you do not have sprouting or rotting. Light will encourage them to sprout. I hope this helps! Thanks again and good luck!

Sincerely,

Katie Wagner
USU Salt Lake Extension Horticultural Assistant

What are these little white bugs?

Thank you for the question. It sounds like this pest is a real nuisance. If you would like to bring an insect specimen into our office for us to identify, we could more accurately make recommendations for the pest involved. We are located on the corner of 2100 South and State Street in the South County Building, Room 1200. Our office hours are 8 to 5 Monday through Friday.

If the insect is a gnat or an aphid, the upcoming cold temperatures will take care of them. The deciduous trees, shrubs, and perennials are entering dormancy so if this insect is feeding on the leaves, the food source will soon be unavailable. You could try knocking the insect off the plant with a strong stream of water. Many pests die once they are removed from their food source.

You can also call our office at 801-468-3172. If the problem is intolerable, as a last resort, you may consider consulting a professional pest control company.
Hopefully, that will help. Thank you for consulting us a Utah State University Extension.

Sincerely,

JoDeane Condrat
Utah State University Extension
Horticultural Assistant

What Kind of Tree Should I Plant?

Thanks for the question! I might refer you to the USU Forestry extension site, www.treebrowser.org.

Although most evergreens enjoy or demand full sun, a few evergreens that tolerate shade come to mind. You might want to consider arborvitae, tall columnar yews, and hinoki cypress. I hope this helps. I will also forward this email onto my colleague to see if she has any other suggestions. Thanks again for the question!

Sincerely,

Katie Wagner
USU Salt Lake Extension Horticultural Assistant